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Posted: 2022-02-25T10:45:01Z | Updated: 2022-12-06T03:39:00Z How To 'Slug' Your Skin The Right Way, According To Dermatologists | HuffPost Life

How To 'Slug' Your Skin The Right Way, According To Dermatologists

This skin care technique is trending for boosting hydration. Here are the creams, balms and ointments to do it.
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CoffeeAndMilk via Getty Images
The practice of slugging involves spreading a layer of an occlusive over the entire face while sleeping at night.

Slugging isn’t new, but the uptick  in articles and social media videos  might make it seem like a recent phenomenon.

The practice of “slugging” involves spreading a layer of an occlusive (typically a petroleum jelly like Vaseline , or a healing ointment like the popular ones made by Aquaphor or CeraVe ) over the entire face while sleeping at night. It has a close cousin in the beauty routines of the mid-1900s, when women wore thick cold creams on their skin overnight to prevent wrinkles .

Why try slugging? The benefits are twofold: Not only does it “hold in” all the moisture from the products you apply underneath, it also prevents dry air from further dehydrating skin.

“If you have severely dry skin that struggles to maintain hydration, slugging could be a great option to help prevent water loss, keeping skin moist and nourished,” said Geeta Yadav , a board-certified dermatologist in Toronto. “It’s also great for those who have intentionally caused skin damage through in-office aesthetic treatments like peels and laser resurfacing treatments, or those who have unintentionally injured their skin with severe sunburn or through over-exfoliation with an OTC or prescription retinoid ,” Yadav said.

But not everyone is as big a proponent of slugging as the numerous positive TikToks might make you assume. Writer Jessica DeFino, who asks her readers to Please Stop Slugging , even points out that petroleum jelly  — which is what Vaseline and similar occlusives are made of — is a purified petrochemical, a fossil fuel and therefore a contributor to climate change. And just the idea of smearing Vaseline over your face might have you imagining the breakouts that will appear soon after. Plus, we’re all probably using too many products anyway , so is there any real benefit to adding another one?

Will slugging make you break out?

First, some good news: petrolatum is noncomedogenic, meaning it won’t clog pores and cause breakouts. But there’s a caveat. Depending on your skin type, it may still contribute to acne .

“Even though it’s not comedogenic, as an occlusive, it can trap oils or other comedogenic ingredients in the skin and could potentially contribute to breakouts,” said Hadley King , board-certified dermatologist in New York City and a clinical instructor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medicine.

This means that slugging is best for those with normal to dry skin types, or those experiencing irritation and eczema. King advises that those with combination or acne-prone skin skip it, but others may find it beneficial.

“For dry skin, particularly in a dry environment that will exacerbate transepidermal water loss and dryness of the skin, applying an occlusive like petrolatum can be very helpful,” King said.

Yadav likes to think of slugging as a “factory reset” for skin, giving skin the opportunity to heal itself. “Think about how you help heal a wound on your skin, like a cut: You slather it in a product like Neosporin (which not only contains healing antibiotics, but petrolatum), then cover it to keep it protected. Slugging works similarly — keeping the skin moist, then protecting that moisture with an occlusive formula,” Yadav said.

What’s the best product to use for slugging?

While petroleum jelly alone is most often used, it might not actually be the best option. “For slugging, the emphasis is on the occlusive, but ideally this still should be combined with humectants and emollients for optimal moisturizing results,” King said. Like what, then?

Beauty influencer @uglyducklingskincare recently provided, via Instagram , a group of slugging products to try. We’ve listed them, along with some other suggestions, ahead.

1
Lanolips 101 multi-purpose ointment
Lanolin does wonders for the skin. This deeply hydrating and naturally occurring oil actually mimics the natural oils of skin and holds up to 400% of its weight in moisture, all while creating a breathable barrier for skin. Lanolip's all-purpose ointment uses 100% ultra-grade lanolin in this occlusive formula, great for slugging and imparting all its skin care benefits.
2
Cosrx snail mucin essence
It wouldn't be a true slugging experience without actual snail mucin, a long-adored staple in Korean skincare that promises benefits like increased hydration and improved skin texture. Cosrx's Advanced Snail power essence contains a highly concentrated 96% of mucin filtrate and happens to be one of the most popular snail mucin products out there. This regenerative serum is intended to be applied under your traditional occlusive slugging products.
3
Glossier barrier recovery cream
Glossier calls this buttery cream "a puffer jacket for your skin" because of the nourishing barrier it provides to dehydrated, damaged and sensitive skin. The occlusive moisturizer uses a blend of plant-based butters and oils as well as nutrient extracts to keep moisture in the skin as it heals.
4
Aquaphor advanced therapy ointment
Aquaphors cult-favorite skin protectant is formulated with more than just petroleum. It also combines lanolin, a deeply hydrating emollient, with glycerin and provitamin B5 both of which act as humectants to draw moisture into the skin and prevent it from escaping.
5
CeraVe healing ointment
Like all of CeraVe's dermatologist-adored products, this silky petroleum-based ointment contains three different ceramides, the essential building blocks that are needed for a healthy skin barrier. It's also been formulated with hyaluronic acid, a staple ingredient for keeping skin hydrated and plump.
6
SkinCeuticals Hydra Balm
In addition to pure petroleum, SkinCeuticals' take on the protective balm uses aloe and bisabolol to soothe skin as the ointment helps to reinforce the skin's natural lipid barrier.

If you’d prefer to avoid fossil fuel byproducts entirely but still want to try slugging, oils and thicker night creams are good alternatives to petrolatum, and can be used the same way. 

“Occlusives are oils and waxes, which form an inert layer on the skin and physically block transepidermal water loss,” King said. This includes petroleum, but also other substances like beeswax, mineral oil, silicones, lanolin and zinc oxide. Humectants include hyaluronic acid and glycerin, and emollients include cholesterol, squalene, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and ceramides.

Yadav recommends using a product like SkinCeuticals Hydra Balm Moisturizing Ointment . “In addition to containing petrolatum, it has rose hip oil and squalane for added moisture. I use it on my patients to help them heal after more intensive procedures, like deeper chemical peels and laser skin resurfacing,” Yadav said.

 Here’s how to do it (and how not to do it)

Whatever you choose to use, make sure you start with clean skin. Then, follow up a thin layer of hydrating moisturizer before sealing it in with your chosen occlusive. “Some suggest cleansing and going straight to the petrolatum-based product, but I disagree — if your skin is very dry, the occlusive will seal in that dryness,” Yadav said.

Be cautious if you’re using any topical prescription medications, since using an occlusive on top of them could increase their potency. Other strong ingredients, like AHAs, vitamin C and retinoids should be skipped, too. “By sealing in ingredients that can irritate the skin, you’re increasing the likelihood of sensitizing your complexion and diminishing the moisture barrier,” Yadav said.

Slugging might not be the best choice for every skin type, but for those with dry, irritated skin that needs some TLC, it can seal in hydration and help skin heal.

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Before You Go

Must-Have Products To Achieve The Trendy 'Dolphin Skin' Look
This protective primer that even has 'glow' in the name(01 of08)
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The first step is to shield your skin from damage," Samer Jaber , a board-certified dermatologist at Washington Square Dermatology in New York, told us. "Make sure you are taking care of your skin by using sunscreen daily to protect your skin from damaging UV rays to minimize discoloration and premature wrinkle formation.

Supergoops Glowscreen SPF 40+++ isn't your momma's sunscreen. It's a great way to ward off those pesky environmental factors that contribute to signs of aging and it provides a hydrated, pearlescent base for makeup application.

Get the Glowscreen SPF 40+++ by Supergoop! for $36.
(credit:Sephora)
This skin-plumping essential that dermatologists love(02 of08)
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As we age, the cellular turnover rate of our skin starts to slow, which can result in a duller complexion and a lack of elasticity . Not very dolphin-like.

Retinol, which Jaber calls an all-star addition to skin care routines, can fortunately help restore this turnover process and promote collagen production. The A-Passioni Retinol Cream by Drunk Elephant uses 1% vegan retinol along with a triple peptide blend to visibly firm and strengthen, creating a supple skin texture like no other.

Get the A-Passioni Retinol Cream by Drunk Elephant for $74.
(credit:Sephora)
These handy pads to improve skin texture(03 of08)
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Alpha hydroxy acids are known for their resurfacing abilities and for leaving behind smoother, plumper skin the perfect dolphin skin canvas.

You might consider substituting a gentle exfoliating pad instead of your retinoid one night a week," Jaber said. These ready-to-use Facial Radiance Pads by First Aid Beauty contain both glycolic and lactic acids to gently exfoliate and brighten while toning the skin.

Get the Facial Radiance Pads by First Aid Beauty for $36.
(credit:Sephora)
This cult-favorite moisturizer that keeps skin healthy(04 of08)
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Retinoids and exfoliation can be very drying, Kirsch warned.

You can definitely overdo it, which is why I recommend using these exfoliants and actives in a measured approach and letting your skin build tolerance, he said. He also came up with a technique he calls the moisture sandwich: using a moisturizer on the skin prior to a retinoid, then adding another layer of moisturizer on top as a way to mitigate dryness.

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream is a crowd favorite because of its lipid-restoring ceramides and its heavy dose of hyaluronic acid to draw in moisture.

Get the CeraVe Moisturizing Cream for $15.99.
(credit:CeraVe)
This multitasking, complexion-boosting illuminator(05 of08)
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The Hollywood Flawless Filter by Charlotte Tilbury is a great way to customize your level of sheen and build a radiant complexion. And don't worry if you're confused about whether this is a foundation, primer or highlight it's a little bit of all three (and then some). The product can be mixed with or used under foundation, worn on its own or applied like a highlight to focal points of the face that reflect the light.

"Less is more when it comes to makeup," Phillips said. "The key to dolphin skin is hydration, seamless blending and knowing where to add powder and where to let the skin shine."

Get the Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter for $44.
(credit:Sephora)
This bronzer for all over the face(06 of08)
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This Allure 2020 Best of Beauty Award Winner is one of Phillips must-haves for achieving dolphin skin.

To add warmth, I use Nudestix Nudie Matte in Sunkissed onto the cheeks and anywhere the sun would naturally hit for a fresh, bronzed, out-of-the-sun glow, Phillips said. One of the most attractive qualities of this convenient stick bronzer is its nondrying formula and balmy texture. Its highly blendable and plays nice with other cream and liquid products, so you dont have to worry about product feathering or separating. The dense stipple brush included on one side of the stick makes this a great option for on-the-go applications and a really seamless finish.

Get the Nudestix Nudies Matte Blush & Bronze for $34.
(credit:Sephora)
This shimmery, glimmering highlight powder that melts into the skin(07 of08)
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I think we can all agree by now that luminosity is a key feature of dolphin skin. The perfect highlighting product can really make or break this whole flipper fad.

Phillips recommends the Tom Ford Sheer Highlighting Duo in Reflect Guilt because of the perfect amount of reflective luster it adds to the skin. The finely milled pressed powder formula is satin-like in texture and seemingly absorbs into the skin, leaving behind a wet-looking finish. Phillips likes to apply this highlighter on the high points of the face, like the tops of cheekbones, brow bones and just above the cupids bow. You can also apply this product wet to achieve even more vibrancy and eye-catching shine.

Get
the Tom Ford Sheer Highlighting Duo for $84.
(credit:Sephora)
This radiant and hydrating glow in a bottle(08 of08)
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This product is the pice de rsistance to a finished face thats ready to take a dip in the dolphin skin pond. The Iconic London Glow Spray contains finely milled microshimmers to catch the light while doubling as a hydrating setting mist to keep your makeup in place. The formulation also includes a bevy of skin-loving ingredients like vitamin E and green tea extract , which team together to condition skin and protect it throughout the day from oxidative and environmental stressors. The result, according to Phillips, is a fresh, glowy look that wont budge.

Get the Iconic London Prep Set Glow Spray for $27.
(credit:Sephora)

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