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Posted: 2023-01-20T10:45:29Z | Updated: 2023-01-26T17:14:52Z What Dermatologists Say About This Suspiciously Cheap Skin Care Brand | HuffPost Life

What Dermatologists Say About This Suspiciously Cheap Skin Care Brand

The affordable skin care line recently launched targeted clinical formulations that treat everything from acne to dryness.
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The Inkey List's Supersolutions line uses ingredients and formulation percentages that have been clinically proven to be effective.

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Even the most knowledgeable skin care aficionados would probably agree that the existing product landscape can be confusing. With new beauty brands cropping up daily and a rotation of ingredients claiming to perform better than the last, it can be difficult to adopt an effective regimen that works for you.

That could be why companies like The Inkey List , an affordable skin care line that specializes in single-ingredient products with no-fuss branding, have caught on.

The approach can make it easier for people to understand which products they may benefit from and to decide which products should or should not be combined, said Dr. Carmen Castilla , a board-certified New York-based dermatologist.

“Products that try to target multiple skin issues and contain a combination of too many active ingredients can sometimes be too harsh on the skin and difficult to tolerate,” said Dr. Lauren Penzi , a board-certified dermatologist also based in New York.

In September, The Inkey List applied this tailored take to its Supersolutions line, a collection of products that have been formulated to target one major skin concern each (like redness, dryness, acne and more), using active ingredients that have been proven effective. Each product in the five-piece lineup has been developed with dermatologists. (Neither of the dermatologists in this piece is affiliated with The Inkey List.)

“Supersolutions has products that have active ingredients very similar to prescription grade products. The concentrations of active ingredients are lower than a prescription strength product but may be effective if they are used consistently,” said Castilla. She noted that although the brand has used observational studies to determine product effectiveness, the studies have been very small, using 22 patients or fewer. 

The Supersolutions products differ from The Inkey List’s regular assembly of goods, which also contain single-ingredient options but have lower concentrations of some of the active ingredients and haven’t been formulated specifically by a team of dermatologists. 

Clinical-grade skin care isn’t always the most accessible or affordable, with some brands costing up to $250 for a single product. The Supersolutions products come at a relatively low price point, but Castilla said to keep in mind that “if trying to form a skin care routine, having to buy multiple products with single ingredients versus buying one product with multiple ingredients may be more expensive in the end.” 

Whether your skin care needs include post-acne scarring, irritated dry patches or excess oil production, you can shop the entire Supersolutions line below. Mix and match for a completely customized routine and learn a little more about what these dermatologists have to say about the specific ingredients.  

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The Inkey List
The dry and rough skin solution
Urea in concentrations of 2-10% has "excellent hydrating effects for dry skin issues," according to Penzi. She said that multiple clinical trials on the use of urea-containing formulations have shown significant improvement in many of the dermatoses presenting with scaly and dry skin, such as atopic dermatitis and xerosis.

This fast-absorbing moisturizer contains 10% urea in a lightweight texture that won't feel overly thick or occlusive on the skin. Perfect for eliminating those red, flaky patches and repairing a compromised skin barrier, the addition of 1% colloidal oat helps to soothe irritation, making this suitable for people who have eczema or psoriasis-prone skin.

The Inkey List doesn't recommend using the product with benzoyl peroxide, BHAs, AHAs or retinol.
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The Inkey List
The acne solution
This gel-like cleanser is meant to target persistent acne without the irritation and dryness that can sometimes occur with products containing benzoyl peroxide, an ingredient that kills acne-causing bacteria. Penzi said that a 5% benzoyl peroxide concentration has been clinically proven to be just as effective as 10% in treating acne, but without as much irritation.

To combat irritation even further, The Inkey List added beloved hydrators like glycerin and hyaluronic acid to draw moisture into the skin and lock it in, even after the cleanser has been washed off.
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The redness relief solution
Castilla said there's clinical evidence to support the use of azelaic acid, which is in this product, as a redness reducer. It also employs the calming capabilities of allantoin and micro-fine green color particles, which is helpful in offsetting the appearance of redness.

Because the serum's texture promises to be pill-proof and white-cast-free, it can easily be layered underneath other products or foundations for an added redness-masking effect.
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The Inkey List
The excess oil solution
If you've explored even the tip of the skin care iceberg, you're most likely familiar with niacinamide , an all-encompassing antioxidant that plays nice with all skin types and is capable of addressing everything from excess oil production to uneven skin texture. The Supersolutions version contains a 20% concentration of the stuff, along with zinc to target sebum buildup and squalene.

"The 20% niacinamide concentration is relatively high and has the potential to be irritating. However, the formulation also has squalene, a fatty acid, which can help support the skin barrier and may prevent irritation," Castilla said.
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The Inkey List
A scar, mark and wrinkle solution
Most dermatologists will tell you retinol is arguably one of the most important ingredients you can have in a skin care routine. By increasing cell turnover, the vitamin can help to resurface the skin and reduce the appearance of post-blemish scarring, marks and wrinkles.

This serum contains the Inkey List's highest concentration of retinol at 1%, along with the nourishing properties of apricot kernel oil and squalane to protect against moisture loss and irritation.

"Although [1%] is a high concentration, the general strength is determined by the actual retinol molecule, Castilla explained.

Before You Go

A Dermatologist Reveals How To Get Your Skin Care Back On Track Post Holiday Excess
Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro light mask(01 of09)
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"LED Masks initiate changes at the molecular level. Red light boosts circulation, improves healing, and stimulates collagen. Blue light targets acne-causing bacteria and a recent study notes it can stop the breakout cycle and reset the skin," Shirazi said. She recommends using LED lights three to five times a week for up to 10 minutes for best results.

I'm a long time fan of the Dr. Dennis Gross light mask , and can speak to its efficaciousness. It's definitely a hefty financial investment, but it's one that is well worth it. With regular use, you may reap the rewards for years to come. A purchase of this mask includes a USB charging cord, a detachable and adjustable head strap, a storage bag and user manual to get you started. Even if you arent a beauty or skin care fanatic, you wont regret adding this device to your rotation.
(credit:Sephora)
CeraVe hydrating facial cleanser(02 of09)
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Recommended by Shirazi, this gentle, hydrating cleanser helps prep your skin for nourishing ingredients without stripping the moisture barrier. This classic CeraVe cleanser is formulated with hyaluronic acid, ceramides and glycerin to hydrate, cleanse and soothe. (credit:Amazon)
SkinCeuticals C E ferulic acid serum(03 of09)
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It's no surprise that Shirazi recommended this cult-fave serum. She said it's a "potent blend of antioxidants in a stable formula to protect against environmental stressors, improve discoloration and support collagen production. It's expensive, but you only need a few drops so it lasts for a decent amount of time." (credit:Dermstore)
Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos glycolic resurfacing night serum(04 of09)
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Shirazi recommends using this serum once a week in place of retinol. She explained that it has an AHA glycolic acid blend that works to renew and resurface the skin for a smoother complexion. Salicylic Acid helps loosens sebum, and unclog pores while antioxidant-rich fruit extract hydrates and soothes. (credit:Sephora)
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene gel(05 of09)
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Made with adapalene, a retinoid, this treatment is ideal when you need to "renew skin cells and reduce oil production," Shirazi said. It can help to clear skin and prevent whiteheads, clogged pores and acne. (credit:Dermstore)
SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 242(06 of09)
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This popular treatment is made with ceramides and fatty acids that can help restore elasticity and hydration as well as vitamin E and other antioxidant-packed essential oils that help to fight free radical damage. (credit:Dermstore)
Paula's Choice niacinamide + azelaic acid duo(07 of09)
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Kill two birds with one stone by snagging this duo from Paula's Choice. Shirazi is a fan of both niacinamide and azelaic acid, making this the ultimate skin-loving combo. It helps to enhance your natural glow while smoothing rough, dull skin. (credit:Paula's Choice)
Aveeno Calm + Restore nourishing oat cleanser for sensitive skin(08 of09)
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Shirazi is a fan of this naturally calming and nourishing oatmeal-based gel moisturizer. She explains that it's "particularly great for oily skin as it doesn't feel heavy, yet sinks right in to nourish the skin." (credit:Amazon)
Medik8 bakuchiol peptides serum(09 of09)
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Bakuchiol is considered an excellent retinol alternative. This moisturizing serum from Medik8 works to brighten the complexion and soften typical signs of aging like fine lines and discoloration. (credit:Dermstore)

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