HEIMAEY, Iceland September is a time of little sleep for Sandra Sif Sigvardsdttir. Its puffling season, she says. Ill sleep in November.

Beyonc plays on the radio as she and her sister Berglind drive up and down the streets of Vestmannaeyjar. Heimaey, meaning home island, is the only inhabited island in Icelands Westman Islands. Its also home to the largest colony of Atlantic puffins in the world.

Berglind slams on the brakes and throws the dark blue SUV into park in the middle of the road. Sandra Sif sprints toward a flash of fluff and comes back smiling. In her hand is a puffin chick called a puffling, or pysja in Icelandic. She places the black and white seabird, about the size of a soda can, carefully in a cardboard box in the trunk.